DAY 5: Brunswick Heads to Byron Bay

Getting ready to E-Bike

Having wheeled the e-bike out of the bedroom, Debs took it for a whirl in the motel carpark. She took off, and I meant TOOK OFF. E-bikes are powerful. Apparently fear makes you laugh. While she practiced around the streets of Brunswick Heads I made my way, in a more traditional fashion, to the start of the Tyagarah Fire Trail. And saw some more wildlife along the way.

Tyagarah Nature Reserve

The nature reserve had a crisscross of fire trails. The ones pictured below were the best the track had to offer because for significant parts of the track it whittled down to an aminal track squeezed between low trees which had overgrown it. Vehicle access was only good for the first km from either end.

Despite the difficulties this created for Debs, it was an enjoyable walk and a welcome change from total beach walking. This 7km stretch took about 2 hours. We arrived at Tyagarah Beach for a quick lunch of rolls, bananas and dried pawpaw.

Deb realised that her hat had fallen out our her milk crate, “probably the last time I fell off, about 2kms back” so while she retraced her steps I explored the best way to negotiate the next section – bushwhacking or the clothes-optional beach.

You can see Byron in the distance, about 6km away. Debs cycled around like a 7-year-old on Christmas Day, while I covered the long unpopulated expanse reading my latest opp shop find, Measuring the World by Daniel Kehlmann. The story of two scientists and mathematicians, who in the late-18 century set out to measure the world; one by travelling the world and the other from his desk. We had to part company when she wasn’t prepared to take the hired bike across a lagoon outlet.

It was disturbing to see the extent of the sand erosion along the beach. The crumbling sand cliffs give the impression that rocks have fallen away, but when scratched they reveal themselves to be simply compressed sand. This sight became more disturbing as I reached Byron, as frequently young women were sunbaking tucked up tight against the sand cliffs. I am always wary of sandfalls, the weight of them and the difficulty of rescue so was horrified to witness a 3-metre wide stretch of cliff collapse as I walked past. If it had been a little further down I think I would have been dragging someone out by their feet.

Having covered the last few kilometres apart we reunited at the Beach Hotel – right on the waterfront in a welcome spot in the shade where we could watch ‘the beautiful people’ living the Byron life.

The Art Factory Lodge

Because both Debs and I have an interest in Art and Design, we are both part-time uni students studying these courses, I thought that the Art Factory Lodge might be a fun place to stay, and at $139 for two nights it seemed like it could bring the budget back into balance. From their website, it looked like a brightly painted youth hostel with a ‘stay and chill’ vibe and only a 10-minute walk from the city center.

I booked the Island Retreat Twin Room which has one of those faintly unstable-looking bunks, double below, single above. I hate having to climb up and down those bunk ladders that feel more like you are scaling a set of samurai swords than steps – so Debs might have to be the mountaineer tonight.

Exploring Byron Bay

We explored a number of food options – we were in the mood for fish – so decided upon Kinoko Sushi Restaurant. After a shared entree of Seared Eel Nigiri from the Sushi Train, Deb had Chili Chicken Ramen [chicken thigh char siu, bamboo shoot, soft boiled egg, shallots and chili oil] while I devoured a Teriyaki Salmon [tender pan-fried salmon served with pan-fried vegetables and boiled broccoli on a sizzling plate, with a side of rice.] Very yummy. Might have to go back tomorrow.