Argun Oil and reaching the North Atlantic Ocean

Thursday 9th January 2025

We left our mountain village, Aroumd, early in the morning to walk back down the zig zag track to where our main luggage was stored, and the van. We had only taken the bare necessities for the night – just as well because the shower water was freezing and no one was tempted to die on the mountain.

Argun Oil

We headed towards Essourira, stopping outside of Ounagha to see how argun oil is made. This expensive and relished culinary and cosmetic oil comes from the crushed seed at the heart of the argun nut. I suspect it belongs to the apricot/almond family as it has the same three layers. The vital part of this plant is the same as the final small pip you find inside an apricot seed.

The women smash the nut with a stone to get the inner nut, and then smash again to get the seed.  Hard work.

The seeds are ground to a paste the consistency of runny peanut butter, which is then hand squeezed and compressed until the solids and the oil separate.  If the nuts are roasted, it becomes cooking argun oil. If it is not roasted, the oil is cosmetic. Apparently, it cures everything. Olivia uses it for her hair, so we bought some. 250 MAD for 60mls.

I haven’t given much indication of prices in Morocco. They vary a lot. Six dirham (MAD) is about one Aussie dollar (AUD). A standard bottle of coke can cost 5-50 MAD depending on where you buy it, supermarket or sitdown cafe. So $1.80 to $8.10.

Dinner can cost 25 MAD for a taco (think souvelaki) or 130 for a meal with a local family. A G&T in a rooftop bar costs 100 MAD for a very generous pour. As in all countries which shy away from fixed pricing, checking before you start is vital.

Saouira (Sew – air – ah)

Although the full name is Essaouira, everyone (well mostly Moroccans) just calls it Saouira, which means beautiful design or picture perfect. It is a port and trading hub.

We were to spend two nights in a hotel in the Medina. No cars enter this space, so we hired a porter to move our luggage in a cart. The Medina has about four gates or entrances and is otherwise protected by high walls.

We spent our early evening walking around the water front and generally trying to get our bearings.  The medina is not big, but the alleyways can get a bit tangled, so it helps to have a few landmarks to look for.

Hello kitty

Yet again, it was a town of cats. These cats were introduced during plague times and are well looked after by the city. They are all vaccinated from rabbies and desexed.  They were for the most part very healthy specimins, and it was nice to finally be able to pet them.

Sun setting in the Atlantic

The latter part of our evening was spent walking along the beach and waiting for the magmificant sunset to fall. Some of the girls did dip their toes in, but it was cold. I don’t think we will be doing a re-enactment of the Midelt ice-bath!

It was a relaxing way to finish three days of intensive driving. We grabbed a quick but filling meal of salad, chips and either falaffel or chicken. 

The call to prayer

WHAT! The medina has three mosques, so three minarets, and three Muezzins all calling good muslims to prayer – right opposite our window.  I didn’t get to record it properly from my bedroom window, but this gives you an idea. Turn your volume up for the best effect.

They have five prayer times a day; Fajr, Dhuhr, Asr, Magrib, Isha. (A list worth remembering for your next Quiz Night competition.)

And so to bed, with the hope of a good nights sleep.